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Irving Penn on Issey Miyake

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These comments are excerpted from the article “Issey Miyake Talks About A-Bomb,” which appeared in the December 6, 2015, edition of the Japanese newspaper The Yomiuri Shimbun. Kilian, Michael. "Glamor and Grit: Penn Photos Draw Big Crowds at Smithsonian." Chicago Tribune (April 19, 1990): 14. The designer, known for his signature heat-pressed pleating technique, saw fashion as inherently optimistic and clothing as ‘like beautiful architecture for the body’ Hall-Duncan, Nancy. The History of Fashion Photography (exhibition catalogue). Rochester, New York: International Museum of Photography, 1979. Penn photographed for Vogue and commercial clients in America and abroad for nearly 70 years. Whether an innovative fashion image, striking portrait, or compelling still life, each of Penn’s pictures bears his trademark style of elegant aesthetic simplicity.

The Vogue editors continued to give him unprecedented autonomy over his shoots, even flying him to Paris in 1949 so that he could benefit from the highbrow aesthetic of haute couture. Penn returned with what became his signature style -- carefully staged photographs of models resembling living sculpture. Lisa Fonssagrives, one of Penn's many models, married him in 1950 and two years later gave birth to a son, Tom. They remained married until her death in 1992. Penn, Irving. Irving Penn: Cranium Architecture (exhibition catalogue). New York: Pace/MacGill Gallery, 1988. A Half-Century of Color 1900-1950, 4th Biennial Exhibition of Color Photography and Reproduction, American Museum of Photography, Philadelphia, March 15–April 12, 1951. Traveled to: Dayton Art Institute, Dayton, Ohio, February 7–March 4, 1951; Erie Public Museum, Erie, Pennsylvania, April 21–May 5, 1951; Salmagundi Club, New York, September 10–28, 1951.Close Encounters: Irving Penn Portraits of Artists and Writers, Morgan Library and Museum, New York, January 18–April 13, 2008. Japanese designer Issey Miyake passed away on August 5, 2022, at age 84. This article originally appeared in the May 2016 issue of Metropolis.

Drieshpoon, Douglas. "Irving Penn: 1948 (Pace/MacGill Gallery, New York)." Art News 91 (February 1992): 133.

The task of design is to make concepts [into]realities,” Miyake said of his studio’s Reality Lab. “and to actively experiment until products are in the hands of those who will use them.” The lab was established in 2007 with an 11-member team comprising both young experimenters and veteran engineers, working on new ways of making. The lab’s first output, released in 2010, was the 132 5 collection, its numerical name an indication of how the pieces moved through various levels of dimensionality. Alongside the collection, the lab also developed a fully recycled polyester material (which members wear in the photograph above). Reality Lab. went on to collaborate with computer scientist Jun Mitani, who had developed a software program for what he calls 3D origami, creating continuing additions to the 132 5 collection, as well as IN-EI, a 2012 collection of collapsible lighting. — A.R. Nolde, Philippe. "Irving Penn: le photographe dessinateur." Conaissance des Arts 564 (September 1999): 72–77. What Penn's camera leaves out is always as important as what it includes. From omitting the fashion model from an early shoot (see his first Vogue cover, 1943) to eliminating the environment for the figure, his photographs use absence to stimulate appetite. Parry Janis, Eugenia and Wendy MacNeil, eds. Photography within the Humanities. Danbury, N.H.: Addison House Publishers, 1977.

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