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The material sandwiched in the hull tabbing and down inside the cabinetry is what supports the rigging through the chain plate. Talk to our expert team about our selection of metal and chain accessories, perfect for load bearing and assisting with the lifting and moving of heavy objects on site.
I decided to have a layer or two of Pre-Kote paint applied to the beams later for two reasons: First is to seal off the pure GRP-surface from potential future drops of leaking moisture coming over the chain plates into the inside, a second one is to have a clean start and a new indicator if – in some years to come – I do check the chain plates again and will thus be able to quickly distinguish new leaks from the old ones.
How can I hold the mast in place if I want to replace one side at the time, once the standing rigging is loosened?What kind of material to use, to create a good bond with the wood, and with the fiber glass of the hull? Out of two bore holes I could shell a lot of dark pieces of rotten wood, vacuuming everything thoroughly I asserted that the core around the holes with a radius of up to 7 centimeters is virtually gone. Number 1, there is a good chance of crevice corrosion on some bolts and definitely where the chain plate passes through the deck.
I am currently checking different methods which is the best way: Resin without GRP-mesh, resin with GRP-mesh, classic filler. PS: Best advice, higher a rigger (no dog in the fight) they are very familiar with substructures to the rigging, and can give you some sound advice on what direction to take for proper repairs. The boat has leaked water through some ports, and the through the chain plate area, which holds the standing rigging of the mast.And, well, yes, with a sigh … some more items made it onto my to-do list after some 3 hours of work. Benz is right, you need to get someone who knows what they're looking at to tell you what needs to be done, and then, how to do it safely.