Hollywood Fashion Tape

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Masks get a pass because we’re now used to all sorts of patterns on people’s faces, but a tie with the infographic width-ways is a bit distracting. It’s certainly not one for a video call. This summer Thom Browne opened up a luxury concept tennis pro store in St Tropez. The shop has a soft minimalist and masculine aesthetic with a private and tranquil feeling. Judged solely as sartorial statements, however, the interpretations are a mixed bag. A pattern as busy as this is a brave choice to wear as a clothing item rather than accessory. At first glance, and without the reference, a shirt with the global heating infographic looks more like something found in the gift shop for a Bridget Riley exhibition. For Spring/Summer 2023 season, inspiration continues to come from both the natural and the virtual worlds, as print and pattern trends continue to expand on the underlying theme of highlighting environmental or social issues – expressing the need of the times.

The funny thing about our popular striped pattern is that there was a time in the Middle Ages that it was considered a perilous act. Only the social outcasts, such as prostitutes, jugglers, cripples, and clowns wore the pattern because it is highly distinguishable. Local archives even say that in 1310 Northern France, a cobbler was condemned to death for simply being spotted wearing the pattern. Stripes were even deemed ‘the devil’s cloth’ since captured convicts would wear the pattern as uniforms which could be easily spotted and identified if he happened to escape. However, many American states decided to abolish the uniform in as early as the 20th century as it was seen as a badge of shame. This pattern remains an active archetype in what we believe prisoners are wearing which is dominated in popular media. Animal prints have secured a segment of their own and there is no outcasting them in any given season. A classic in its own right, animal-inspired prints keep reinventing to suit the vibe of the times and this season cements the fact further. We’ve had some jaws drop today,” says Pilvi Muschitiello from the British Antarctic Survey (BAS), who helped design the shirts and has been modelling them in the green zone. “A lot of people are very enthused when they see the shirt. People are surprised just looking at the CO2 levels and the historical record, as well as where we are today,” she says. Pear – for people with bigger bottom halves and narrower shoulders, opt for a horizontal stripe top to create the illusion of a bigger torso. Don’t be afraid of co-ordinates (co-ords). Matching a striped top and skirt can be daunting, but also beautiful.

Pants

Tapping on the dopamine trend, designers across London, Milan, Paris and New York embraced bright colours, tie-dyes and ombrés adding a ‘rainbow effect’ sort of vibe to their pieces. The coolest way to do occasionwear this summer, a striped maxi dress in punchy or pastel hues is a winner for weddings and garden parties. Colour is always appreciated by style watchers - and if that colour has a “if you know, you know” kind of meaning, so much the better. Repurposing Ed Hawkins’ infographic on shirts, ties, scarves and, inevitably, face masks gains approval for these factors alone. With the rise of the Beach Culture striped beach clothing was predominant in the mid 19th century. From women’s beach dresses to tents and men’s bathing suits everything was striped. As the beach destination became slowly more accessible to all wealth classes, the lower class would adopt the upper class styles and stripes at the beach was seen as chic. This popular pattern slowed down in the ‘70s and ‘80s to adopt new styles, but the years of stripe popularity was a time that is fondly remembered for welcoming everyone onto the same playing field…until of course new trends dominated the scene the next day.

In 2018 Thom Browne’s lifelong love of sport was demonstrated when he announced his official partnership with Barcelona FC – arguably one of the biggest partnerships to date. As well as his memorable designs, Thom Browne’s Fashion Week shows always deliver high impact. Designs are inspired by themes from Thom’s life whether that’s his sporting influence or family traditions, and his shows are an opportunity for his creativity to flourish. The Spring/Summer 2023 runways were awash with the return of the ‘preppy’ look, especially in a big way for the men’s segment, wherein the trend is being showcased with a new twist: less Ivy League, more ‘sport street’. Starting conversations about climate change is key to engaging everyone with the urgent need to cut greenhouse gas emissions,” says Hawkins. “Using fashion is another example of how the warming stripes have been used as inspiration for enabling these conversations with different audiences.”In London, Burberry presented a twist on its traditional raincoat over matching pants, rendered in neutral tones while at New York, Adam Lippes showed a dirndl style skirt with a matching ruffled top and tall sunhat.