Other CLEAR TRANSPARENT PLASTIC TWO HOLE JIGGER BACKING BUTTONS 15mm 20mm 23mm (10, 16mm)

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We’ve discussed this already, and Whitcomb have offered to change the colour if I want, at no cost. So this time I chose a colour that, while certainly in the same colour family, was subtler and more greyed. That was 779205 from the Dormeuil overcoating bunch (650g). A style of bow tie with two narrow ends of equal width. One of the most popular bow tie silhouettes. A tweed originally from County Donegal, Ireland. Characterized by small nubs of color in the weave.

A spool totaling 560 yards of yarn. “Super” numbers used to classify wool are determined by the number of hanks that can be spun from one pound of raw wool. The thinner/finer the fibers, the more hanks can be spun from it, thus the Super number increases.My stand alone DB is middle ground. It’s white linen, almost vintage Isaia. It’s ventless, full in the sleeves, wide and high buttons, and can be worn equally well with bottom button done or undone, I can even wear it with the jigger done, and only the lower outer done up with I really want to play fast and loose. These, added to the pale-biscuit colour of the cloth, made it feel much more like a classic polo coat of the type that would be thrown over the shoulders after a chukka, or after a tennis match.

A strip of fabric sewn to the insides of trouser bottoms to give them additional weight and thus improved drape. Popularized by Brooks Brothers, this is a type of shirt collar in which the collar points button to the shirt itself. A more casual shirt, it requires longer collar points to achieve a handsome “roll.” Whenever possible, I find it’s best to build on something you’ve seen elsewhere, rather than starting from scratch. To restrict experiments to things that are less expensive (relative to what you have available to spend). And to make them reversible, or at least adaptable. That’s a reason why sartorial brands trying to market their softer, relaxed sprezz outfits base their marketing on photoshoots of tousle-haire young men out on the town, and not young men in the boardroom. Ambience is nine tenths of the sartorial game. I won’t mention names, but Drake’s is one example. Understanding them, weighing them up and acting accordingly is the key – rather than blindly following one or the other.We did, however, have the foresight to set aside a strip of the cloth – so the belt can be re-made at some point if it becomes frayed.) In trousers, an interior button tab which releases tension from the main buttons and zipper of the fly. It’s usually only possible to break the rules well when you know why they are there, and therefore what you are giving up. And a cloth that was soft enough to be happily cinched, but also heavy enough to have drape and flow when untied. If it could work - traditionally - over a polo shirt and tennis shorts, surely it can work over denim? (Though perhaps darker and straighter than my Cone-Mills Levi’s, pictured).

as stated by the very few negative comments, it is reminiscent of a dressing gown and looks feminine (would be worse without the structure). It gives the impression that the coat was not finished and a belt was added to allow the coat to close. The vertical line that runs from a trouser’s thigh down to them hem. Ideally, it will bisect your knee.It’s fun researching old designs then recreating or reinterpreting them, finding cloths etc. I can’t post a pic but I can post a link to the picture of Mr Laurel that inspired the coat. Most of the time the strip of cloth doesn’t show, but even when it does it’s quite tonal and doesn’t look odd.

One really useful feature that Suresh and Sian at Whitcomb & Shaftesbury suggested was having the jigger button loose, on a strip of lining on the inside of the coat. A lapel style in which there is a space separating the collar from the lapel at the gorge line. Known as a notch collar in America. Term referring to a garment that has been made almost entirely by hand based on a pattern created exclusively for the customer, often with the stipulation that 50 hours of handwork are necessary to earn the title “bespoke”. The Savile Row Bespoke Association also states that the suit must be made on or around Savile Row itself to be considered truly bespoke. When seated, however, one had to keep unbuttoned all functioning outer buttons whilst keeping the inner, jigger, button securely buttoned.This is all made in Whitcomb’s Indian workshop, under their Classic Bespoke offering – so cut and fitted in the UK, but with all other work in southern India. So no buttons on the front, just a belt. A jigger button inside to keep the inside layer fastened, but none on the outside. I think I’ll have to wear it with more things, probably over the rest of the winter, before I know. The degree of space in between the collars points at their longest point. Can range from narrow to cutaway. To sew loosely together with long, easy-to-remove threads so that a garment can be temporarily held together to be tried on. Used in the full custom process to perfect the customer’s pattern.