Games Workshop Citadel Pot de Peinture - Contrast Basilicanum Grey (18ml)

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Necrons: The Necrons are an ancient alien race that relies on a combination of advanced technology and reanimation protocols to achieve victory. Basilicanum Grey can be used to great effect on their vehicles and constructs, giving them a sleek and menacing appearance. In this week’s Goonhammer Historicals we take a look at how to paint some of the most iconic uniforms of the Napoleonic Wars. As I mentioned above, my Krulboyz hero scheme is based on the Blue-Tongued skink. Initially I was going to carry the blue spot color motif forward onto the heroes, but ultimately decided that that didn’t make as much narrative sense. The Hobgrots are subservient to the larger Kruleboyz. Instead, I decided to carry the Hobgrotz skin forward as the leather worn by the hero. It’s a vicious society and any Hobgrot that steps out of line is turned into hides. I found that a coat of varnish helps to fix the problem, but you have to be careful, as the varnish can reactivate the Speedpaints as well. It’s quite annoying because it’s not an issue at all with Games Workshop’s Contrast paints and limits the Speedpaints’ usefulness because the reactivation issue also means that Speedpaints aren’t really suitable for glazing techniques. A single thinned down coat might be fine, but when you glaze multiple layers of Speedpaints over another the paint will reactivate and mess up all your careful glazing work. Multiple layers of glazing with Slaughter Red thinned with Speedpaint Medium

Here I just smooshed on Contrast: Guilliman Flesh on the skin & Contrast: Space Wolves Grey on the fur.

About Me

I also basecoated the hair, which varied from man to man. I mostly used Scale75 Mars Orange, Scale75 Brown Leather, Vallejo Brown Leather and Citadel Steel Legion Drab. It’s then given an all-over wash of a 50/50 mix of Basilicanum Grey and Contrast Medium . Make sure this doesn’t dry in any weird pools. To find out which Speedpaints reactivate and which do not, I painted all of them on my trusty sheet of plasticard and let them dry for over 24 hours, to make sure that really all of the medium has evaporated. I’m using Spaceship Exterior Warpaint to paint over the left halves, and Corax White over the right halves, which are both very light greys. As you can see, no matter which Speedpaint I’m painting over, the paint reactivates and discolours my acrylic paint. Neither Warpaints or Citadel paints make a difference. You can probably skip the sepia in the recesses here, as it is not particularly impactful to the final models.

But we all know Contrast isn’t perfect. Some colours do exactly what they are supposed to, like Blood Angels Red and Iyanden Yellow – base colour, shading and highlights with one coat. Other colours are quite thin and feel more like washes, like Aethermatic Blue and Gryph-Charger Grey. And many of the darker colours are rather flat and hardly create any highlights, like Dark Angels Green and Cygor Brown. This stage isn't usually done much with nmm gold do it's fun to do with steel as it can set the scene for your miniature. Highlight the eye lenses with Warpaints Lava Orange [or Troll Slayer Orange], then add a small dot of white to the corners of the lenses. Finally , is there a decent Yoot Choob tutorial that covers this? I feel that with this internet source that’s where these paint guides should live as there are some terrific film clips out thereBoom, done. This whole piece probably took an hour to paint once primed, and that was with breaks to paint other minis while I waited for the washes to dry (by far the longest part). I didn’t show any floors here, but when I do them I paint them Karak Stone and drybrush/edge them with Rakarth Flesh and that compliments this cold gray scheme nicely. The end result is a piece that has enough color to stand out but won’t distract from the models around it. The only thing it’s missing is a base. Speaking of which… The only place I needed to do some touching up was on the parts that end in a pillar, because spraying while flat meand that the primer hadn’t gotten to the side properly, though if I was doing this again I’d just make sure to spray in there. The Army Painter promises that Speedpaint is a real “one coat paint” and provide a consistent feel across the range. You can see it in the paint swatch below – the results of Speedpaints are more homogenous, whereas there is a broader distribution between light and dark in Contrast paints. Features Paint the doors, sign, awning and roof with Caliban Green. Paint the ribs of the awning with Rakarth Flesh. I wasn't happy with the blend at this point so I tried out apothecary white as a glaze to smooth the transitions and it worked great.

Paint a few detail bits on the underside Leadbelcher, wash Nuln, good enough for stuff people will never see. Highlight flesh with thinned Citadel Death Guard Green and the off-white areas with Citadel Karak Stone. Sponge Chipping:Create weathering by dabbing a torn piece of foam in dark grey, like Eshin Grey or Skavenblight Dinge and/or a dark brown, such as Rhinox Hide, then dabbing this against the model. Wash the sign (both the lettering and the red) with diluted (1:1 parts water to paint) Basilicanum Grey. Next, I drybrushed the model with Leadbelcher . I only did this on certain areas, such as the face, the top half of limbs, and hands – sections that would have light hitting them. Think of this as a selective highlight instead of an all-over drybrush.

Richyp’s Method

The paint scheme above is definitely not designed for painting large armies, more for creating a nice looking skirmish sized Kill Team. Here are some ideas to speed things up for army painting: Here you can see some examples of how I applied this colour scheme to other models in the army, varying up the markings and amount of teal and gold depending on the model. Paint the wood and any straps with Citadel Contrast Wyldwood and any ropes/bandages/feathers with Citadel Wraithbone.

Basecoat the purity seal with Khemri Brown, which is an old discontinued paint [you can also use Baneblade Brown]. With that your model is done! Just base them how you want and you’re good to go. I went with a nice desert look for the Setrakh Dynasty.

After that, I added Contrast: Volupus Pink on the membrenes and ears and around the eyes. Finished it off slopping on the Contrast Flesh Tearers Red on the all the claws They often need multiple coats to achieve a similar level of richness. Also, the pigment-based formula doesn’t really work with zenithal shading, as the opaque pigments will gather in the dark recesses and make them brighter, which is not exactly what you want. I wanted to try out the new contrast colours and apply them to this technique to see what results I could achieve. Then drybrush the gray parts with Celestra Gray. Avoid hitting the metal but it’s not the end of the world if you do. The goal is to add a lot of texture to this so be sure to hit the flat surfaces as well, pressing your brush down on them. I use a large drybrush for this.